NITROUS OXIDE ( nos / n2o ) advice forum

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Although I have noticed that the heater cuts out at 850psi. Now, either........

The guage is wrong....
The switch is wrong (and looks like it can be adjusted)...
Or, my bottle is a little too low.

Can the pressure switches be adjusted???

Many thanks.

Although after some thought inducing alcohol last night , I realised that if the bottle was low, it wouldn't affect the pressure switch, due to it being operated by PRESSURE and not level...

Now does anybody know the AMPS taken by the heater??? It's obviously quite a large drain for a bike.

Now does anybody know the AMPS taken by the heater??? It's obviously quite a large drain for a bike.

I did warn ya Miff The bonnie really struggled to keep it hot for long so i just resorted to hooking up a power pack in the pits,so it was up to pressure when i went down the fire up road. As long as the bike is running it's ok,just leave the idle a bit higher than normal...The beemer managed fine,but then it has got a car sized battery I'll get the books out ,see if I can find the charging rates

Hi

It depends on the size of the heater....

In my car I have twin heaters (1 for each bottle)

I have them both relayed and fused separately and the fuses are 30 amps on each....

All the best Brett

This may not be your scenario but I know this can cause this, You may be getting a small amount of valve float which would decrease your vacuum. Have you hooked up a vacuum gauge to see what your vacuum is during a nitrous run?

Brett we're talking about bikes that have batteries that wouldn't power the idiot lights on your car for more than a couple of minutes.

Most modern bike batteries are designed to be able to give a large(relative to their size)hit for starting puposes,the problem with this is if you allow them to get a bit low they are unable to turn the motor over AND power the ignition.The altenators are built inside the motor and are only adequately rated will little extra capacity. Drain on the battery can and will directly affect performance.

Bike electrics and especially batteries are not expected to carry the loads required in your average tin box,no radios or air con fans or courtesy lights or central locking or fag lighter sockets for running a million and one accessories.

A couple of minutes of bottleheater use without the motor running would flatten the bonnie's battery,even with the motor running you can tell when the heater kicked in as it pulled the idle right down.

I Picked up a nitrous express heater - these are MUCH smaller than Trevs blankets. It draws a fair bit less (thankfully) as the Rapid battery is motorcycle sized (lets face it, most of the BIKES have a bigger engine) Although I do have a big alternator (95A instead of 35A std)

I would wire that heater in so that it cant be used unless engin runing , as batty said on bike ya get a big boost for a few secs from bike battery to start it then yuo feked if you put to much load on it

I was looking at them speed cell batteries for bikes that the drag racers use with all there gizmos and toys fitted till i saw the feking price

altho i did consider at one time using an old car electric heater element from seat , or an element from a baby bottle warmer or a set of them wrap around heated grips they use on bikes in winter with just a cable tie but with 3 bottles on bike it all got a bit complicated LOL and i already have enought wires on bike

so i stuck with easy option ajustable fule supply

Hi

I dont know much about Bikes (obviously lol) but could you not run a fly lead with a connector to a car so you are using the cars battery/alternator to heat the blankets prior to a run ???

All the best Brett

Well.............

The ZZR is still a street bike. I ride it on the road, so... I have wired the heater in via an ignition live, with an override switch. It seems OK when the engine is running, but when the radiator fan kicks in, it does drag the revs down slightly. It is only a 12 ah battery.

It has a nice new battery, made by VARTA. Not some cheapo shite.

I also have heated grips, although I don't intend using the two items together (I used to have Nitrous AND a topbox on the last bike ) although I think the grips are only 6 amps at full heat.

I think the carbs are slightly out of balance, so that's the next job to help the tickover. It's a bit high at 1500rpm. It should be at approx 1200rpm.

I was really just curious as to the amps the heater uses, as it gets bloody hot.

I now know I'm going to need a bottle blanket, as when out on a ride today, the pressure wouldn't get above 750psi. I know this won't happen or even be an issue at the strip, but I do use it on the road. My local test strips are various distances away.

As you can see, the bottle is hanging out in the air flow.

if its same rating as car one its 20amp

12v - 225 Watt Heater Element
Max Average Current 20A
500 - 1200psi Operating Range
50psi Operating Window @ 950psi

It wouldn't suprise me, but it's half the size of a car warmer.

Even if I found out the wattage of it, I could work out the ampage.

Finally got round to testing it again.

Jets are still 50 & 50. Bottle heater gets the bottle up to 950psi.

All it does is bog down on the road. It's like it's still running too rich on the fuel side.

You shouldn't need a bottle heater in the current weather conditions.

What ignition components are you using (plugs, leads, coils and system itself) and how old are they?

What gap have you set the plugs to?

What's the static test results like?

What other jets do you have?

Have you ever run a bike successfully with THAT bottle mounted THAT way?

Have you ever had the valve out of the bottle?

Have you checked for nitrous LIQUID flow from the injector/s?

NGK CR9e standard plugs. Stick coils from a 1999 CBR600. the rest is standard.


0.8mm


reasonably good


75 80 and 100


YES, on my Bandit 600.


Yes.


Yes

OK in that case your spark strength is inadequate.

A decent static test result without a similar result from the road test is the EXACT scenario caused by a weak spark.

Have you got a spark tester?

The spark needs to be able to jump a gap of at least 15mm in atmosphere, otherwise it won't jump the plug gap under escalated cylinder pressures caused by nitrous injection.

If you don't have a spark tester, try reducing the plug gaps by 2 thou at a time until you get a result.

OK
Many thanks

I'll also try putting the standard coils back on.


It's all making sense now

Standard coils are unlikely to be adequate, I even had an instance where brand new stock coils were worse than the stock used ones we were removing.

The ONLY way to ensure adequate spark strength is to fit Dyna coils & Taylor leads.

Would it be worth changing the grade of the plugs???

At present, they are the standard NGK CR9E.

Not unless you get a result or intend to 'eventually' make more than 50 HP.

Ok. It's been a while, but it's finally working.

I put the original Kawasaki coils back on and it's now working on the road.

Shame about the clutch though

Off topic but I love them ZZR600's. Bought one the day I passed my bike test as they had just come onto the market (1990). What a bike it was when it came out compared to other options on the market. Unfortunately it got stolen at only 7 months old

It left such a good impression I bought another one on the spur of the moment from CJ Ball in Hales while I was working in the area. Have to say Chris was the deciding factor in my purchase as he let me take the bike out for about an hour without question which is unknown for any bike dealer to do up where I live and he then lent me a trailer to take it home.

Can't imagine what it'd be like with a nitrous shot as they were no slouch back then

Well the E models were a step up from the D models. Mine's making a genuine 95bhp at the rear wheel without the nitrous