NITROUS OXIDE ( nos / n2o ) advice forum

I'm a bit pissed off, as after all the work I've had done, and at great expense, I have oil seaping slightly into my water once again. It was ok for the first 1000 miles, but its started again.

Two things spring to mind, is it after the re-torquing or is it because I'm now opening her up on a regular basis.
Also, even when cold now the water system is always pressurised and it was NEVER before.

I always thought that when you re-torqued, you just went round with the wrench and made sure they were all still at the same settings, but apparently my mechanic backed them off and then re-torqued them. My thoughts on this were that any seal that had formed would be broken by doing it that way.

Your thoughts please.

Oil in water or water in the oil is usually caused by Head gasket leaks , this may have happened when he re-torqued .
I would just drain and refill the cooling system .put the engine through a couple of drive cycles and check for hydro carbons in the coolant . Wouldn't think you need to re-torque with ARP studs on ally heads , most car manufacturers use torque to yield bolts which can not be re tightened

Austin

ARP advised on re-torquing, it was the methods that concerned me.
Its oil in water.

With re-torque arp studs, you do back them off, and then retorque, but only one at a time.

Although retorquing shouldnt be nescesary with arps if the proper install procedure was used. IIRC they should be torqued/re-torqued 3-4 times then a final 5th torque sequence. all using moly lube underneath the washers and nut heads.

Arp studs are multi use items, not torque to yield one use items.

Were the heads/block skimmed at all and what gasket are you using?

all the above was done correctly and i have Multi Layer Steel Gaskets.
Did not skim.
Like I say, problem only arose this week having done 1300 miles since re-build and re-torque was done last week

BUGGER!!!!

I very much doubt the re-torque technique was responsible.

It is possible that the re-torque was done too late, in that the tension on the gasket had released enough prior to re-torque to have allowed a leak.

My fear is that you have a crack in one or other of the heads, because unless the gaskets are some piece of shit, I'd expect them to be sealing now they've been re-torqued and if there is still pressure in the water system, then it indicates that there is still combustion pressure getting in to the water system.

Your only hope is that the pressure in the water system and oil mixing was due to the re-torque needing to be done earlier and that the water system is now air locked and not functioning correctly as a consequence. To check this you need to make sure the water system is bled correctly and if that doesn't cure the pressurisation when cold, then I'm VERY SORRY to have to say that my money is on a cracked head. Does your type of engine have a rep for cracking heads by any chance?

BTW not skimming the heads and/or block should not have been needed unless there was some obvious reason for needing to do so, like the engine had been seriously over heated before or the surfaces were damaged and a lack of this work should not cause the problems you're experiencing.

The only other hope you have that's just sprung to mind is that either the head gasket/s were garbage and/or damaged prior to being fitted, either as supplied or during the fitting process.

You've answered my question on the technique, so I'm happy with that.
Coolant seepage in numerous 840's has always been an issue, and I thought I had solved it with the ARP's.
Obviouly the M62 lump is just a piece of shit.
Its just gonna get abused now until it gives out

The ARP's can't solve a shit head gasket problem and that can be the only cause of the problem (assuming nothing is cracked or porous), so what you NEED are my super amazing head gaskets, which I 100% GUARANTEE will not leak or ever fail.

Thanks Trev, but this engine will only be coming out for one reason, and thats when I've blown it to pieces with shit loads of NOS

As long as you have the timing optimised the engine (even with the issues you have, as long as it hasn't got a cracked head) will survive all the nitrous you can handle, so it looks like it'll be in there for a long while.

If it does fail when using nitrous, it will be due to one of the 2 following potential problems;

1) Detonation due to high comp and inadequate retard and/or high enough octane fuel.
2) Cracked head causing air leak and melt down.

NOT because the engine strength couldn't handle the power.

I reakon I have nothing to lose, so 200 shot it will be

I can see a Mopar 840 on the horizon

Poor old Rich!!
Like you say mate. If it wasnt for bad luck, you wouldnt have any ??

Never mind mate, We will get our heads round that bugger next month.

Pel