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 Post subject: Adding Second Stage
PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 6:35 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 08, 2009 7:10 am
Posts: 59
Location: Colorado
I’ve been running a single stage dry nitrous system on my EFI converted FJ1100 based drag/land speed bike for a few years now. Old setup used a 150 HP X-10 with locally sourced shower head, nylon lines, and injectors. Upgraded last year to WON Max Flow botttle valves, 250HP X-10, and Y-blocks with discharge tubes.

Now I’d like to use the 150HP X-10 for a first stage followed by the 250 HP X-10 for second stage.

1. Are venom injectors a good way to add a first stage?

2. What is a good way to provide nitrous to the first stage? Use the purge port from the 250HP X-10? Use a Y-block coming from the bottle?

Thanks,
Chris


Last edited by fj1289 on Thu Aug 02, 2018 2:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Adding Second Stage
PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2018 4:08 pm 
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Wizard
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Joined: Sat Mar 21, 2015 8:13 pm
Posts: 969
Location: Orlando, Fl in 'Merrrrica!
It sounds like all you need are larger Pulsoids and a nitrous controller to add your power progressively. This is a more efficient route that results in less clutter, more peak power, and more consistent power delivery. Staged nitrous is an OLD and CRUDE method of adding power to the engine: you already have most of the parts to use progressive power.


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 Post subject: Re: Adding Second Stage
PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 1:19 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 08, 2009 7:10 am
Posts: 59
Location: Colorado
Hi Alex

Agreed with what you said for a more modest horsepower level. The ECU we are using does play with the pulsoids quite well - progressing from 15% thru 100% based on time or VSS - with 10 adjustable points through the entire curve.

Edit - I see I left out of the first post we are using a progressive controller - that was kind of important to the discussion! Sorry about that ....

So far we have only used 150 HP jets on the bike and have been starting to spray in second gear.

The plan for this year is to both increase to total amount of nitrous we are using (250+ HP — depending on how much the engine can actually use!) AND start spraying in 1st gear - on an unprepared track without spinning the tire. It seems like trying to hit 1st gear with approximately 37.5 HP all at once (15% of 250 HP) may not be the best plan.....

The ECU will support fully independent progressive curves on two stages of nitrous - I’d like to try to take advantage of that capability. And since we went to a 10 pound bottle on the bike (with a bottle heater) I think we’ll be able to keep a pretty consistent bottle pressure even at the 1 mile track!


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 Post subject: Re: Adding Second Stage
PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 3:06 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 21, 2015 8:13 pm
Posts: 969
Location: Orlando, Fl in 'Merrrrica!
Ah, yes I see your point where power could be a handful in 1st. There are two other options that might help without cluttering or weighing down the bike:

1) Make the mixture initially rich for 1st gear as that will further reduce the power and then lean in out in each subsequent gear (just be careful not to foul out the plugs). I did this with my scooter to reduce a 5hp hit to about a 2-3 hp hit to keep the front end down (fixed hit at the time).

2) Use a REVO setup as that allows power from 0%-100% and any percentage in between. However, this also requires the use of a controller capable of handling the revo. Either a Max Extreme REVO OR a controller (perhaps your ECU with REVO interface?) that can give the same outputs and that is beyond the scope of my experience so I'd get in contact with WoN in that regard.


Hopefully, this gives you some ideas that may help you to get the bike to your goals. :cheers:


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 Post subject: Re: Adding Second Stage
PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 10:56 pm 
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Learner

Joined: Sat Aug 08, 2009 7:10 am
Posts: 59
Location: Colorado
REVO is definitely where I want to go with it! That will have to wait a bit longer in the budget process!

I can also tailor the ignition curve - so may try more retard along with a bit richer mixture. But I’d prefer to tune “directly” as much as possible and then fine tune using timing and mixture if needed.


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