NITROUS OXIDE ( nos / n2o ) advice forum

Just give it a burst of the button as per static test instructions, only a quickie because of neighbour problems with Vance and Hines Revved cleanly and very quickly from 3000 revs to above 6000 in an instant!
That MIGHT be PERFECT.


Tank now 3/4 full and flowing 260ml without jets , still just over 100ml with.
That's fine.

Am I right to have the black top hat washer in the nitrous elbow only?
Yes

Thinking , if I need a longer test I`ll do one trackside tomorrow.
Yes a longer static test would be worthwhile and the aim is to see the rpm rise to JUST BELOW the red line, when holding the switch activated. If it falls short of the red line its too rich and that's the perfect place to start. If it wants to exceed the red line it is either perfect or a bit too lean and although perfect is the ultimate aim, because we can't tell the difference between perfect and a bit too lean, it's best to start from what we KNOW is rich.

Or could I risk an 1/8th mile run? and do a plug chop , will be on gas for 4 or 5 seconds.
[color=#FFFF00]The SAFEST way to track test the mixture is to just use the system for the last couple of seconds and then cut the ignition, do a plug check and if all looks well use the nitrous for 4 seconds and repeat the process, progressively increasing the duration of use until it's used for the full 1/4.
Keep an eye open for the ground electrode starting to round off, as that's the first sign of a lean mixture.[/color

Like I said I am no expert with plug chopping. Cut the ignition at end of run , pushed bike back!! got breath back , then whipped em out. Looked the same on a run after not doing the plug chop.
Did you cut the ignition as soon as you released FULL throttle?
As long as the plugs look the same on and off nitrous and the engine/bike performs OK then that's all you want.

Dyna s ignition with 3ohm green dyna coils , ngk plugs , standard dr8ea , using dr9ea for nos .
OK - have you done anything to ensure the leads are CORRECTLY fitted in to the terminals and that the terminals are fully fitted INSIDE the coil towers and have you done anything to improve the sealing of the insulation boots?
Finally have you made sure the wire connectors are pointing away from the coil tower?

It did run a bit iffy , like it was missing a bit in the higher revs , richness?
Yes if the engine felt like it was reluctant to pull higher rpm in higher gears but was fine in lower gears, that's normally a sign of richness, so add that to the static test result and to the plug result and it's looking likely to be rich.

Probably hit wide open in second gear , had to disconnect shift light and rev limiter cos they were playing up so may have short shifted a bit . All a bit hectic on the bumpy track , not ideal.
Considering 1/8 times are even more heavily dependent on the performance over the first 60ft etc. than 1/4 times, the fact that you ran through all of 1st gear WITHOUT nitrous, means the results are even better than would at first be appreciated. Furthermore, poor track conditions are far from being ideal (as you say), for using and assessing a higher power output, as it gets exponentially harder to use more power in such conditions.
All in all it sounds a GOOD result to me.

Does using 4oz of nitrous seem ok? for probably 10 seconds of use.
Near enough!!!
FYI the basic formula is 5lbs / 100 HP / min

The coils are as they came , second hand with taylor leads , have done nothing to confirm the quality of the way they were put together , new leads and redo?
You shouldn't need new leads but you may need new end fittings, as they're often fitted badly and that prevents them being fitted IN TO the coils fully, which then leads to the spark tracking oustide the coil/lead.
If you PM me with your phone number I'll call you to described what's needed.
You should also MEASURE the spark strength with one of these;
http://www.noswizard.com/product_desc.php?id=104


The coil wires point away from the coils
We may need to clarify this.

At SCR on the 11th , do you think a jet change is in order and further static test trackside? Slightly up the nitrous or slightly down the fuel
Ideally you should reduce the fuel until you achieve optimum results then you have the optimum mixture ratio whilst using/wasting minimal amount of nitrous and/or pushing potentially suspect factors (like the ignition) beyond their capability.

ok, coils sound good... the discrepancy could be yr meter itself but you should get 12V at the coils. Try running a wire direct from battery and see if that improves the situation. could just be dirty contacts in kill switch etc or corroded wire/terminal somewhere.

If that does improve it, you could use this permanently with a relay switched by original wire.

Steve

Tried that Suzook , seemed to work , the battery is at 13v , freshly charged. ran a wire to coil and tested it before connecting to coil and afterwards , read 13v both times . So there is a bit of a problem with the original switched live!
Absolutely right.

Could I just run a wire from the battery on a toggle switch to the coils to get me through Saturday at SCR , as long as I remember to turn it off after runs. Or like you said rig up a relay , although being a electical numptie that could stump me!!!
This simple diagram should sort that for you - I'd avoid the switch idea if you can, because although it will work (assuming you use a suitably high Amp switch), it could end in tears.



Will try the ignition tester rigged up to the battery and see if it improves
Done the ignition test , no different
It should have been so you'd better check your HT leads. What brand are they and if they're a resistor type, how much do they measure??

Whatever the case you do NEED 15 mm spark strength (as Jarl stated above) and anything less will produce inferior results.

Just removed one HT lead , poked the ignition tester up! the coil , jumping over 15mm now, new leads soon to be ordered!!
Excellent news.
2 tips for you;
1) If there's no name or other way to identify a product you can be sure it's JUNK
2) Make sure you get Taylor leads and none resistor type if you can get them.

PS 4 Pin 'Normally Open' contact Standard (mini) 30 amp is this what im after?
Yes that'll do and although it was obviously the leads that were the main cause of the fault, it'd still be wise to do the wiring mod to ensure maximum power to the coils and therefore the spark.