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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 5:42 pm 
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what comes next....

ok so i need to get a bottle of gas, then what?

static test?
run?
plug chop?
adjust jets?
another run?
plug chop?
adjust jets?
another run?
plug chop
buy bigger jets?
...

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 10:08 pm 
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.... Buy bigger jets again....
Fit pump, buy bigger jets
buy bigger jets
buy bigger jets
alter bike for drag racing only..... buy bigger jets
Oh.... Did i mention bigger jets?? LOL

:D

Steve

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 9:32 pm 
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suzook12 wrote:
.... Buy bigger jets again....
Fit pump, buy bigger jets
buy bigger jets
buy bigger jets
alter bike for drag racing only..... buy bigger jets
Oh.... Did i mention bigger jets?? LOL

:D

Steve


what's the maximum with gravity?

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 9:37 pm 
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Impossible to say as it depends on a number of factors;
Tank height compared to carb position
Tap flow capability
System flow rate

I have seen 80 HP made using gravity and theoretically it's possible to make much more with the appropriate parts.

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 7:05 am 
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I understand pulsing at high levels becomes an issue also with gravity? Most people seem to manage 75BHP ok with gravity, but after that its pump time, its also definately pulse time for a bike then too
But as Trev has said, its all down to flow rates, some people may only get 50bhp, my race bike on the other hand will flow way over 250bhp worth of fuel :D
Although i actually run a high pressure pump on mine with adjustable regulator, so fuelling for me is just a simple tweek to add/subtract fuel for jetting. With the fuel i can flow i could probably get away with gravity even with pulsing purely because it flows substantially more than it needs (over double) but the adjustability wins it for me, i can change nitrous pressure, nitrous jet etc and just flow test fuel side to get it close then tweek it to get it bang on, which, for a race bike is where ya wanna be i guess lol :D
Steve

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 5:56 pm 
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just looking at extras.....

how does a gauge and a pressure switch fit on a bottle? do you need a 4 way adapter?

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 6:57 pm 
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just need a gas up....

Attachment:
IMAG0175.jpg
IMAG0175.jpg [ 107.68 KiB | Viewed 14277 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 7:00 pm 
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Job done, No faffing around, now enjoy and lets hear the results :yes:
What does Mrs Jewell think you've been doing :?:

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 7:05 pm 
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Mrs Jewell did enquire as to why i was watching a lot of "that Nitrous Stuff" i said, it's just something i'm playing with....

now got to get to stoke to fill up....

edit:
NO NO NO NO NO.

i've got to do the testing bit first, don't let me go for a run without doing the testing bit.

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 12:21 am 
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Unless there's something magical about that bottle bracket, I'd STRONGLY advise you against JUST relying on that single one to do the job, because I've seen similar ones fail to secure the bottle when ONLY using a 2lb bottle and a 5lb bottle will be MUCH worse.
You'll at least NEED a bar from the bracket to drop down and hook under the bottom of the bottle to stop it shaking it's way out and better still some kind of brace to stop the bottle weight oscillating and fracturing the bracket.

I had one customer lose a bottle at over 120 MPH as he was blasting down Jurby straight on the IOM and he was VERY lucky it didn't hit and kill anyone. The bottle survived with just a few scuffs to the paint but if it had hit anyone I hate to think of the consequences. :idea:

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 10:13 am 
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I hear what you are saying about the bracket Trev. it's just me getting too excited about being close the the finish line. Will make a better one as per your suggestion.

meanwhile, the bottle is being filled RIGHT NOW!

edit:
4.3lb. £21. nice.

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 7:38 pm 
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will be making brackets and testing tomorrow. 8)

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 8:23 pm 
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neiljewell wrote:
will be making brackets and testing tomorrow. 8)

This'll be Neils test run then, my heart was pounding by the end of this :beatstick:
http://uk.askmen.com/video/entertainmen ... video.html

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 9:53 pm 
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that's my daily commute. my bike and i are too fat to get through some of those gaps but the camera is low and you can see over cars when filtering like that so whilst this is a very skillful ride it's more about observation skill that bike control.

and he can't wheelie for shit.

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 9:56 pm 
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holy moly.... :shock:

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 3:59 am 
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I dare say that that rider will have a very short life, that was both spectacular and irresponsible at the same time, I was just waiting for a pedestrian to cross the crossing in front of him or someone to open a door on him. car/bike hoons give car/bike enthusiasts a bad name.

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 11:46 am 
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Having been a bit of a wild daredevil type rider/driver most of my life that video brought back memories of my younger days but even I wasn't as INSANE as that guy - THAT WAS SERIOUSLY SCARY & I couldn't believe it went on for so long and GOT WORSE towards the end. :o :o :o :o :o :o

Unfortunately I encountered such a guy when I was having a sane moment (lucky I wasn't being as insane as he was as I'd be dead now) and as a consequence I had my right leg smashed off.
I'm sure the guy in the clip wouldn't be riding like that, if he'd had first hand experience of my injuries.
Crazy as it sounds, in my experience and in my life, I was NEVER involved in an accident while driving balls out (insanely to most people) and yet I've had a number of near death accidents when driving 'responsibly' - FUNNY OLD WORLD!!!!

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 4:38 pm 
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i have news to report....

static test with 50/150 jets was on the rich side. revving from 3k to 6.5k nice and safe.... so i went for a test ride.

could certainly feel a difference and i was expecting a kick but it was more like a turbo spooling up. certainly more power but my sphincter was telling me that it was not an extra 25bhp. this probably rings true with the rich mixture.
i then put the 60/200 jets in and went for another ride. this time the difference was huge, so much so that my clutch started slipping as the nitrous came in.
this sounds like a bad thing but i'm more than happy with that result.
i have a barnett HD clutch in it at the mo but will add a standard clutch spring to the 2 HD ones and see if that works.

Thanks Trev. and everyone else.

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 7:27 pm 
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1200 Bandit with clutch slip??? :shock: :shock: My how unusual!!! Hehehehe

For what its worth.... Bandit clutches arent worth a t**s whether they have stock/barnet/ebc plates/springs etc. Fit a gsxr clutch and it'll be good as new, especially if ya do the 4 spring conversion (slabside). All details of the mod are available on OldSkool Suzuki 7/11 pages, or if ya keep the stock unit, at least fit a lockup with std plates.

Steve

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 12:35 am 
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steve!!!! i know this issue and i've always been expecting it. i thought i'd had it a few years ago, turns out i''d put semi-synthetic oil in. clutch got hot springs got weak, two new HD springs please mr barnett and some good old castol GTX

i've read that barnett are good for around 180bhp thats why i'm so chuffed that its slipping.

now. please in words of less than 2 synables??? what do i need to do for the gsxr clutch conversion. i have read about it on that many sites and that many times its a true case of information overload. i have figured out that i need to weld the starter gear to the crankshaft fit a coil spring 3 stage lock up with 4 different spring rates and if i have wheelspin i should lower the weights and if i wheelie i should slip the clutch and if i have a poor 60' then i should stick my fingers up my own arse so far that i can bite my fingernails.... etc etc.

i want what this forum is about... facts.

tell me what to do and i'll do it. i listen to those that know better than myself. that's how the human race should move forward.


i need to know year, model, clutch.


i'm currently thinking... add another spring to my barnett. does this work? ooooo the clutch will be heavy. that does not concern me. AT ALL. if i can pull the lever to the bar then its fine. it'll only be me that rides it.

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 2:03 am 
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The VERY BEST SOLUTION regardless of what type/spec of clutch you have is to have an old set of steel plates SURFACE GROUND TO PERFECTLY FLAT.
Before taking them to a machine shop, work out the total thickness of a full set of steels and after you had them ground measure the new pack total thickness and have them grind down another steel plate, to the thickness that makes the full surface ground pack the same thickness as the original pack. Refit the plates as normal and add the extra one to the end.
This will increase the surface area for frictional contact and it will improve the finish of the surface for better grip as well.

The advantage of this process (if it's entirely adequate for your purpose), is that it does NOT make your clutch any heavier. :D

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 2:09 am 
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so ... just add another friction plate but "thin" down the steels to allow for the extra height of the extra friction plate.

i understand.....

T = F*Rg*n*mu

where F = clamping force (n)
Rg = radius of gyration (m)
n = friciton faces
mu = co-efficient of friction.

what this equation means is more faces = more torque; more clamp force = more torque. get a bigger clutch or get stickier plates. clamping force is the easy one.

do the thinner plates suffer warpage? i guess not

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 10:54 am 
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ALL plates suffer warpage (especially new ones) and that's the main reason for using a used set and why there's so much benefit, because you're removing the warpage and putting more plate area in contact with the friction material.
You ONLY remove whatever is required to make the plates PERFECTLY flat and once this is done they are LESS likely to suffer further warpage, even though they are thinner.

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 1:25 am 
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Noswizard wrote:
ALL plates suffer warpage (especially new ones) and that's the main reason for using a used set and why there's so much benefit, because you're removing the warpage and putting more plate area in contact with the friction material.
You ONLY remove whatever is required to make the plates PERFECTLY flat and once this is done they are LESS likely to suffer further warpage, even though they are thinner.


Trev, normally you'd be right... But in the bandits case the issue is generally much worse. What happens with these when they get hot is the ends of the basket spreads out. These clutches barely stand the stock motor, breathe on em and they collapse, usually sooner rather than later. The surface area of the plates is significantly smaller than the GSXR and even these get stressed when breathed on, least the diaphragm ones do.

Neil, basically you have 3 options,
1 stick with stock but put a lockup on it. If ya go down this road, check condition of the basket first. If you want to drag it, lose a spring and add weights to the arms till it holds, if ya dont want to drag it, leave the springs, add weight as necessary to arms. You may find just the arms alone are enough.... then again you may not.
2 Fit the clutch from a gsxr11 k/l/m/n. These are still diaphragm, but you have the benefit of much greater surface area. Not too sure if any spacers needed to accomodate shaft length or not. The other benefit being a steel basket which will not distort as the feeble bandit one does.
3Fit the basket from a k/l/m/n, then fit the centre from a g/h/j. Using this mod, you will need a spacer and a ball bearing (10mm) and the pressure plate/pusher/springs etc all from the g/h/j.

I will post a link up for ya with all the details ya need. I have done this conversion several times and never regretted it. The only real cure for a bandit clutch :D For drag racing this is by far the best setup as it is far more tuneable than the others, tho if ya only gonna street it then option 2 is equally as good, just they tend to be grabby and hard to launch on the strip.

Once the clutch is sorted then the oil issue is also done away with. Personally, i use and recomend silkolene pro4 fully synthetic for these motors, the engine protection is superb. Doesnt matter how long ya stand bike up for, everytime ive removed cam covers, everything has been sticky with oil!!

Steve

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 Post subject: Re: Bloke with bandit 1200
PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 1:35 am 
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http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/

Seems part of the link is missing, not sure if that will take ya straight to it or not will test it in a min

Steve

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