Noswizard wrote:
ALL plates suffer warpage (especially new ones) and that's the main reason for using a used set and why there's so much benefit, because you're removing the warpage and putting more plate area in contact with the friction material.
You ONLY remove whatever is required to make the plates PERFECTLY flat and once this is done they are LESS likely to suffer further warpage, even though they are thinner.
Trev, normally you'd be right... But in the bandits case the issue is generally much worse. What happens with these when they get hot is the ends of the basket spreads out. These clutches barely stand the stock motor, breathe on em and they collapse, usually sooner rather than later. The surface area of the plates is significantly smaller than the GSXR and even these get stressed when breathed on, least the diaphragm ones do.
Neil, basically you have 3 options,
1 stick with stock but put a lockup on it. If ya go down this road, check condition of the basket first. If you want to drag it, lose a spring and add weights to the arms till it holds, if ya dont want to drag it, leave the springs, add weight as necessary to arms. You may find just the arms alone are enough.... then again you may not.
2 Fit the clutch from a gsxr11 k/l/m/n. These are still diaphragm, but you have the benefit of much greater surface area.
Not too sure if any spacers needed to accomodate shaft length or not. The other benefit being a steel basket which will not distort as the feeble bandit one does.
3Fit the basket from a k/l/m/n, then fit the centre from a g/h/j. Using this mod, you will need a spacer and a ball bearing (10mm) and the pressure plate/pusher/springs etc all from the g/h/j.
I will post a link up for ya with all the details ya need. I have done this conversion several times and never regretted it. The only real cure for a bandit clutch
For drag racing this is by far the best setup as it is far more tuneable than the others, tho if ya only gonna street it then option 2 is equally as good, just they tend to be grabby and hard to launch on the strip.
Once the clutch is sorted then the oil issue is also done away with. Personally, i use and recomend silkolene pro4 fully synthetic for these motors, the engine protection is superb. Doesnt matter how long ya stand bike up for, everytime ive removed cam covers, everything has been sticky with oil!!
Steve
FYI Steve (and anyone else). the clutch fits straight on no need for spacers, but you will need a 50mm socket for the spring clamping nut, THEN you'll need to machine down a 30mm socket to hold the clutch on the original shaft. a std. socket doesn't fit inside the 50mm nut. (it'll make sense to the next chap who does this mod.) get an air gun too. makes life very easy.
