NITROUS OXIDE ( nos / n2o ) advice forum

Not sure where in the UK you are, but there's about 20 of us going to Santa Pod this weekend, should you fancy a laugh with fellow nerds

unfortunately I'm working all weekend! it's our college open day on Sunday and i teach the foundation degree students on Saturday. But i'm within reach of the Pod and was thinking about getting to the Bimmerforum meet there in July. may even be able to sell the car!

thanks for the invite!

GF & I already have our passes for July, see you there

Adrian Flux was my cheapest , I listed all mods and added a 2nd bike (standard 650 bandit) came up just under £200 fully comp , protected no claims.......I thought I'd get a shock when I first insured it but was pleasantly suprised.

I think the thread you've been reading is the installation on my bike the only thing i've changed is the use of a tps switch to activate the pulsoids as I had problems with this so removed this off the bike and now use a WOT switch activated from where the tps used to be fitted on the side of the carbs (just about make it out in the pic).

I will try to call on the forum more often to check your progress .

Jezza


This is the Bike now.

many thanks,

is that a head cooler you've installed too? are these recommended?

I'm a way off buying the kit just yet got to sell a car first (BMW 850 V12, anyone????) but i'd certainly appreciate your help have been there and done that before and after reading your thread i'm certainly going to make it happen.

my bike is a bit of a sleeper at the moment, and i'd like to keep it that way, did you fit the longer swing arm before or after? Ii expect this is a must have too, as i'm rubbish a wheelies even though i get a huge amount of practice.

i'm liking the bottle position, can you (or anyone) enlighten me on dip tubes etc. I know you need liquid NOS to the pulsoids so i'm guessing that your dip tube is bent down to the bottom corner of the bottle?
also looks like you still have your airbox does that mean you have the single point kit?

it looks like a very clean, tidy bike! mine is more of a shed.

how did you run?

I've been too busy to get back to the Oldschool forum since my last post (wish I could as I had other stuff to post and would love to see what more rediculous comments were posted, by the idiot element over there), so can you post the pics here please?

I'm not on old skool suzuki forum for two reason... 1) they can't spell and 2) if i wanted arguments with people who know nothing of what I'm trying to do, i'd talk to the wife.

i'm staying here as it's obvious there are actually clever people about who I can learn from and the 8 series site on bimmerforums. i browsed the 3 series threads a while back in there and thought i was in a child's playground for delinquents.

Acheived a personal best 13.8x @ 98.xx (can't find my slip) and my highest termiinal was 99.5mph.
I have still yet to achieved my goal of 13's @ +100mph, but I was thwart with problems.
Mainly the amount of oil I was burning (we think its too thin), so I've been given a recommendation, that was not helping performance. But my worst problem was nitrous flow. I could NOT flow more than 75HP to each pulsoid and I think even that was doubtful. Gonna have to have to seriously re-think about the lines from the bottle.

here's a question that has been puzzling me for a bit...

i have read on here that the Wrong time to activate nitrous is say in 4th gear going up a hill.

i have also read about the static test that when correct, starting from 1/3 throttle +N20 revs should rise to just under red line.

so my question is, if Nitrous is only activated at 90-100% throttle does this then spin the revs far into the redline to get the Power? because more revs = more power?

or is it generally activated say in third gear when going from a slow pace to Max throttle openings to aid the acceleration?

my application will be on a road bike.

(i may have just answered my own question)

im a member in the 3 series part of that site and there is alot of very helpful and clever members always willing to help, so quite a sweeping statement ....

The point about NOT using the nitrous in a LOW gear under HIGH load (going up a hill), is because nitrous combustion expansion needs to occur FREELY. If the piston can't accelerate away from the combustion process, the pressure reaches such high levels as to break parts.

All you have to do to avoid such issues, is to use nitrous in exactly the same way you ride your bike as NORMAL.

You wouldn't try to accelerate at full throttle up a hill in top gear from say 30 mph - what you'd do is drop down a few gears and that's the way you should use nitrous but you wouldn't have to drop quite as many gears.

Nitrous can be used from idle as long as the engine can accelerate FREELY, as is the case with a static test (NO LOAD) and you'd accelerate quicker, by using the nitrous as early in the rpm range as possible in as low a gear as possible.

What you need to appreciate is that there is NO LINK between throttle position and RPM - you can dump the clutch and leave the line at 2,000 rpm at full throttle, just as you could wind up the rpm and and ride the clutch to keep the rpm high at full throttle.

Sorry Ted

Thanks Trev and Suzook12, that all makes perfect sense now.

no prob

Good morning!

Well i thought i'd give the old bike the once over yesterday as it had a few oil leaks etc and the exhaust was blowing etc well to cut a short story shorter the engine in now out and that got me thinking....

it's going to be much easier to plumb in the nozzles with the engine out. so the question is. can i install the nozzles into the inlet rubbers then is there a blanking plug you can supply to "cap off" the nozzles until i get the rest of the kit?

I'm thinking its probably best to plumb back to D blocks then cap them off ready for pulsoid installation.

what is the best installation layout? fuel underneath Nitrous on top?

thanks Trev,

i'll phone up it a bit for a chat.

Neil

On the oil cooled gsxr/bandit motors, with the motor out you can also drill the underside of the head for DP installations. Doing this enables you to fire straight down the inlet tracts as they run off to the sides on these motors.
If you're using venoms you can aim at a particular valve ( the port has a divide between the 2 valves just inboard of where the rubbers attach) or with X-Fires, aim straight at the divide. The X-Fire setup is working particularly well on the race bike
If ya do drill the rubbers, try an old set first (especially if you've got gsxr ones for bigger carbs as these are getting very hard to get hold of now, esp 40mm rubbers like rocking horse poo), so you can get the ideal position for running pipe work. It can be a bit tight for cylinders #3 and #4 as that bloody great alternator sits right there, the starter motor is less of a problem. I did find i had to sleeve my pipes in heatproof sleeving as i couldnt get the pipes in without touching something although you may have better luck with different distribution blocks etc (i use showerheads mounted vertically down behind the carbs).
When working out pipe runs, try work out your longest fuel and nitrous runs then make the other pipes same length, trying to keep fuel 2" or more shorter than nitrous lines. On these bikes it can get very crowded in the carb area so take ya time to get it right. If the pipework does end up touching anywhere, dont worry, sleeving is cheap and available from vehicle wiring products
Whatever ya do, gravity or pumped, bin the B12 fuel tap for a twin outlet pingel or similar as the standard tap can barely keep up with a stock motor with stage 3 carbs!! 5-6 miles on mine flat out in top would see the carbs run dry!!!
These motors take gas sooo well i dont think it'll be long before youre upgrading LOL

Steve

cheers Steve,

i've just place my first order 8 venoms and 2 x 4way distribution blocks. my head has had some work done so the divides are not up in the in lets any more. so i think i'll be aiming the venoms at the split.

what i can see from the spec that the Venoms are M6 thread but what is the external diameter of the mountings?

when you say fuel to be 2" shorter is that the 4 lines from the D block?

also whats a showerhead?

pictures say a lot. here is my inlet tract.

the split is still there can't remember where is was before porting work was done to be honest.
i'll be mounting the venoms in the rubbers underneath easier than drilling the head.

Trev did mention the correct layout but i forgot is it...

D block lower than venoms?

where should the solenoid go in relation to the D block? above? below? need a sketch, anyone?