NITROUS OXIDE ( nos / n2o ) advice forum

It's probably better to use braided hose between the bottle & Pulsoid, which we can improve by internal sleeving.
From the Pulsoid onward I'm not sure that nylon is excluded but if it is, then hard pipe should sort it but it would be better to use our Pro Series Discharge Tubes, instead of our Venom's.

Internal sleeving - would that be a large sized braided line with the nylon line run inside?!
Yup - 4AN with sleeving to reduce it to 2mm.

I'd prefer to use the discharge tubes - but may have to get creative. I don't have an airbox - instead using UNI foam pods. Thinking I'll punch a small hole in the filter for the discharge tube and seal it with a rubber grommet (like used to pass wires thru a firewall). Other ideas?
You shouldn't need to do anything other than punch a 4mm hole through the filter, as it will be adequately sealed by a snug fit.

Sorry I missed your post until now.


As long as they've not been tampered with they should be fine as they NEVER wear out.


Progressive is much better than staged.


For a fixed nitrous delivery you need a FIXED increase in fuel, regardless of RPM. Just because the injector operates twice as often does NOT mean it is delivering twice as much fuel and is in fact delivering less as each operation is for each cycle, so needs to be the same. The only proviso for this is that there is less time available to suck in a charge of nitrous, so you will get progressively less in as the rpm increases but you need to MATCH THAT, NOT HOPE that its going to be correct.


If it doesn't have the capacity to get a fixed delivery correct, it will at best be hit and miss used for progressive delivery.


Time based is the best option, which is why ALL controllers use that method.


Yes you most certainly are.

Have you had an email from Lisa in reply to yours yet?


Certainly Discharge Tubes for the nitrous but you'd get best results from the fuel using our Atomising injectors;
http://www.noswizard.com/nitrous-ancill ... zzles.html

These give you all the advantages of other nozzles and most of those from dry systems, without the drawbacks the others suffer.
Y-Blocks are best for the nitrous (but MUST be fitted and set up correctly) and our shower head should be best for the fuel, although Y-Blocks would also work well.


A separate HIGH pressure pump with adjustable regulator is best in all respects. we can supply all that you need for that but if you choose to buy from any other source, MAKE SURE you get TOP knowledge on what you need, otherwise you can kiss your motor goodbye, as the FUEL is the most important part of the system for reliability.
Gravity is fine for modest power levels when using the nitrous to atomise the fuel but for anything serious it MUST be high pressure pumped fuel, to get the desired level of atomisation.


It's NOT marked as being for fuel applications but I've never seen any that is and as far as I'm aware ALL nylon pipe is suitable for use with fuel.
Unless you run under different rules to other LSR racers you shouldn't have a problem, because I believe we have a few using our systems with nylon pipe that haven't had any problems with tech inspections.
having said that I have heard of some who have had to use our hard pipe, so if you want to play safe we can supply that instead but it will make you life (fitting) much harder.

As it wasn't a simple yes or no reply that was required my assistant may not have dealt with it yet.


Yes


As close to the inlet valves as possible and aimed at them if possible, otherwise the closest you can get to that will do.


My pleasure

I've always used copper (with wire sealing rings) on motorcycles but I have many customers who use MLS successfully.


Unless you're intending to add LOADS of nitrous (in which case I'd suggest bigger cams), just run them as advised for NA use.


Again it depends on how much nitrous you intend to add but the general rule is this, the more you intend to add the lower the compression wants to be and that usually means more quench clearance.

Glad to hear it.


It certainly should, especially if you deliver it in a mild progressive manner but I'd still drop the compression by 1 unless you intend to use a high octane fuel or additive.


Let's put it like this; there's no point put loads in if you can't get it all out and although most exhaust components can handle more exhaust gas flow than standard, increasing it can only be beneficial.


The lower you go the more nitrous the motor will handle and the safer it will handle it. Necessity is a matter of assessing a number of factors (fuel type, ignition timing, cams & timing, amount of nitrous, how you delivery, etc.), so there's no one answer fits all.


Based on info from other LSR customers, the most important factor is 'control', so a Max Extreme is essential


I doubt you'd notice the difference and if anything a lower compression will make it more rider friendly.


My pleasure.

That should all be fine.


For this application I wouldn't be too concerned about cam spec, other than to fit the biggest exhaust cam you can get in, without anything making unwanted contact.


Gear for higher rpm as it will use less nitrous per cycle (which is easier on the motor) but make sure your gearing accounts for the extra rpm it will pull, as a consequence of the extra nitrous power.