NITROUS OXIDE ( nos / n2o ) advice forum

The vids are great perry! The bain of my life is grip, not helped by yorks surface as you will be aware! However, i am making some ladder bar brackets at the mo too, and will be slotting in some bars once the engine is buttoned up (and i can afford the tube and rod ends!) so im hoping that will help things too - just wish i could get some street legal tyres to help grip, as i have to drive to and from the strip and like to run it fully street legal, although slicks are getting tempting!

Forget ladder bars!!!
Just make sure your slapper bars are set up ok mate. Fit ladder bars if you want, But you wont need them until you are pushing way over 450hp and 600 ft/lbs. As long as your leaf springs and bushes are in good nick the slapper bars should hold onto the rear axle ok..

If you want to stay street legal then you should be looking at block treaded drag radials like ET streets???
http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/stri ... m=ETStreet

My home made slappers sit flat on the car at rest. I set my snubber rubbers with a 3/4" clearance on my used springs. This seems to work just fine to get me off the line with my old cart springs winding up just a tad and my blue poly bushes taking the strain to put power down to my MT slicks while my mate Seans Mustang and its top titty rear axle with links all over the gaff just pops a wheelie as his rear end setup is way too hard

The snubber rubber is more than 3/4" in this pic as its on the stands..



Perry

The main things I make sure of is priming the oil system with a drill first to make sure she has oil pressure from the first start.Make sure you have plenty of cam lube on the bottoms of the lifters. Make sure you have a smear of cam lube or ARP assembly lube on each end of every push rod and on the valve tips when you assemble.
Re fit the dissy at TDC and then knock it forward a tad. About 4mm of Advance rotation will be fine to start with.
Make sure your cooling system is filled and vented so its as full as possible.
If the carb was working ok before it should be ok. But make sure you have fuel up to the carb and make sure you can here the float bowl fill when the power comes on before you crank it over.
Fit your strobe for the start up.
When she fires up hold the revs at about 1500 while you quickly set a rough advance of about 20 degree's and nip the clamp lightly down. The timing may not be spot on but you should be able to sit inside and run the revs up and down from 1500 to 3000 over a 20 minute period to bed the cam in while someone keeps an eye out for any leaks. I sit inside my MG while keeping an eye on my oil pressure and temp as my Son keeps an eye on the engine for any leaks.

Its an unusal experience to bed the cam in as you seem to go against all the rules. ie start it and let it run slow to warm up. You just have to bite the bullet and rev the thing from cold to get all that cam and rocker gear settled in first time.

If you have built the engine ok and got the ring gaps sorted for nitrous use it will be a walk in the park mate.

My last full rebuild was a real push for time back in elate 2009. I had to wait until my wages went in to buy the last few bits. We got the build finished about 4pm on the Saturday before a Sunday RWYB. We got her on the trailer as it was getting dark and did the 25 minute bedding in on the trailer outside the house. I let her cool for an hour and then checked oil and water and topped up to the required levels. She started on the button and idled ok while I set final timing from idle to flat out.

we went out on the Sunday and ran 3 PB's back to back

well its been a while, having bought, rebuilt/resprayed sold a skyline, i had a few beer tokens available to get my engine put back together, so last few weeks ive done this!






typhoon cam again

had to clean a few bits thoroughly!



slugs in, crap pic!

heads on, intake side

other side

put my ford adapters on, then did lifter preload ballache!

put the intake on and painted in a fordesque blue!





today i nailed it back in!






also made these for the ladder bars, 5mm steel plate

can you tell waht it is yet?!


starting to look serious!


they are 11lb bottles, look huge in the car, somehow the pic doesnt show it!

and this is where it is right now!

well it lives again! just!

still a fair few jobs to do, but good to hear the old nail rattle again! (rhoads lifters!!) :smoke:

http://youtu.be/t5H_MP-nNhQ

needs the axle removing for my ladder brackets, to make some spring sliders and put my slipper in, few little fiddly jobs, plumb the n20 (no hurry, will take an age to run in!) wire in a shift light i have bought, should be legal again end of next week hopefully!

Glad to hear you're making progress.

getting there, lifter preload was a real ballache, the heads were a pair i bought a long time ago and were an unknown, so no shocker really!

made a few tweaks, took a little weight off the flywheel, needs timing in accurately, but its not far away

getting some alloy sheet to mount a heater matrix in the car to try and get it to run a tad cooler, the extra weight will really be minimal, and if it will cool it down, well worth it!

cam is broken in (I hope!) hope to have it on the road by end of easter, ladder bars ata later date, nitrous ongoing really!

Good progress so far mate!!

Did you bed the cam in at around 2000 -3000 rpm for a little while? I normally let mine tickover for a minute to prove I have oil where it should be then its up and down between 2-3000 rpm for 15 mins or so. Not straight up and down but holding at 500 rpm increments for a minute at a time and fluctuating between random rpm from 2-3000. Dont make the mistake of running the engine gently for the first 500 miles. This could cause you headaches in the near future. If its got oil and water where it should be then you should be able to race it within an hour of initial startup. If you nurse it around for ages at low rpm you could glaze the bores. Those first 20 mins of high rpm are quite important with the RV8.

One suggestion I have is to ditch that tiny breather pipe. If you are only going to run a single crankcase breather I would suggest 25mm bore as a minimum.

When you start giving it the beans, especially on nitrous you need to get those blow by vapours out as fast as possible or its going to be leaking oil from gaskets all over the place. Could you modify the oil filler cap so its a full bore breather? Thats what I do on mine.

Looks like you are going to be having some fun in the next few weeks

it was bedded basically at fast idle for two ten minute sessions, the instructions from real steel say to keep the revs between 9 and 1100rpm, i occasionally went upto 1800/2000

i always get the oil pressure up using a home made primer, as ive had issues with the pump not priming before, and the relief valve sticking wide open, but neither has occured yet

the oil filler is a breather, i modified the rocker cover filler to accept a stock pinto breather, plus ive fitted oil seals to every valve too, its spotless running on the exhaust, with the merest wiff of vapour from the filler, even when it was getting hot from the high revs

as for the run in, im afraid i cant agree, as last time after the cam bedding, i ran it in very carefully, and when i removed the pistons there was absolutely no blow by at all, the bores were also incredibly good, in fact it was a shame to swap the rings as they were sealing very well indeed, especially for the amount of abuse the engine has had over the 60 ish thousand miles it had covered!!


i have to get it run in, then swap to the bigger carb, i have a 38dgas now, which should give good top end power, the current carb is obviously jetted appropriately for the cam etc, so will be fine to run in on those settings, i am going to use it for work for a few weeks, see how many miles i can put on it at normal driving revs/speeds, should break her in gently

If the cam bedding in procedure was ok to settle the cam in then the rings would have settled in as well. All the important stuff happens in those first 20 mins. The gentle driving for the next XX?? miles is a matter of personal choice. If it all gone together ok and it survived the bedding in run then the gentle driving thing is down to the driver. Did real steel sell you the oil additive as well? They seem to insist on the high zinc additive for cam warrenty now?
Are you using 20/50 oil ?

I agree strongly with upgrading the old valve guides to accept the blue push on seals. Its a cheap mod but pays off big time eh

It looks good in the bay with that blue paint I must say.

Keep us posted on the first road tests..

Perry

i didnt use the blue valve stem seals, as they need more machining that i couldnt do at work, so i bought some from ebay that fit on the standard guides, they are more rubbery than neoprene or whatever the blues are (cant remember!) but seem to be doing the job, how long for is a different matter!

used steel rockers too, they are a ton cheaper to buy new, but much heavier, but seeing as it rarely sees 7000rpm, they should be fine! lol

yes had to use the zinc stuff, its like glue, although i didnt rate the crane cam lube, a lot looked to have run off in the few days before i installed the engine/intake, but as i put the lifters in i coated their bottoms (!) so hopefully that gave enough lube in the desired area! stuck some cheap 20w50 mineral in, will drop it after a thousand ish, but it says to use the additive again after that, but i dont think i will do, sounds likea gimmick to me, baring in mind the quality of modern oils, then some 20w50 valvoline racing, makes lovely oil pressure and stand the temps well, always used it after trying allsorts when i first started with the rover 20 years since!

funny you mention the blue, all my mates think it looks shit! i was going to try and look a bit ford, hence the ford rocker covers, but i think it looks tidy either way, although as for applying it, brushing that crap on should be used instead of community service, would stop reoffending over night lol

these are the stem seals, seem to be ok, see how they last, imagine heat will be a killer

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-L ... 1c18205564

Those seals look fine. Some of my mates use them, and you can also get opel manta seals that are the same. Be wary of the steel rockers. I've had 2 sets from reputable suppliers and found them quite loose on new rocker shafts. The crane cam lube is that naff red liquid eh? I use arp assembly lube on all my stuff now, or graphogen lube. It stays where you put it for years until the engine fires up. I also dont bother putting the zinc additive back in for the oil change because my engines do very few miles in a year.
I think the blue suits the Ford ethos for the car mate.

Perry

well as a final word on this thread, i had the car on the rolling road today, that i always use, and with the new exhausts, head work i did and larger 38 dgas carb, it made 240 bhp at the wheels at 5200 rpm

im a happy man, and even with any inaccuracy in the figure, it is still up 20bhp since its last visit, which is definately a bonus!

just need to rebuild my fuel solenoids now, as they started to weep, due to the shitty modern fuel, but thats no biggy, fit my slicks (ps if anyone wants some cheap 15" slicks or wets, i ended up with 2 full sets! just pm me!) they are radial circuit slicks, but compared to a pair of et streets, they were a definate bargain at a quarter of the cost! and return to york, to get my elusive twelve!

Final word ???

Hopefully the next post will be in Race Result section