NITROUS OXIDE ( nos / n2o ) advice forum

Ok then! what is a stabilised bottle? what do we have to do with/to our bottles to get the best,most consistent results?

Reading thru this thread it would appear that the way most of us refill, store and use our bottles may not be best practice.

Until recently I was in favour of N-Boost being best but only as a last resort due to added complexity etc. but we're currently reviewing all options and my current thinking is that the Revo system in conjunction with the Max Extreme, etc. will remove the need for constant pressure, whilst delivering results that are likely to be better.

In the mean time,is there a Best method of preparation for a day's racing?

Bottle heaters and N-boost obviously add complications,as you have stated, you also say N-boost is your preferred option.I would imagine it is somewhat safer?

I've seen the big cars using hot water tanks to store their bottles ready for fitting and using,guess they use bottle heaters when on the car.

But what's the best method for low volume users such as myself. last season I used 16 & 20oz bottles changing -and refillingfrom an 11lb bottle- every couple of passes.I intend to change up to larger bottles for next season,but am I better to use the largest bottle possible? use that as long as possible,then change for fresh? or "top up" frequently to keep pressure and volume up?

Only being able to siphon fill obviously limits the speed with which I can refil. And ultimately the amount I can transfer.

Batty i have same prob so will be interested in Trevs advise on this , i did find that my twin bottles held pressuer better but i gues this was as i was taking less nitrous from each bottle for same jets will be interesting to see how the 2.5 bottle im fitting reacts, in summer not a prob as small bottles warm up fairly quickly but if it drops too much i use my fuel gaguge and reg and ajust fuel side i did some testing with fuel psi at different bottle psi to maintain a good static test guess you could do same test using diffent fuel jets

I understand your method for keeping nitrous/fuel ratio constant,but reading thru this topic again made me wonder if there is more to this than keeping an eye on bottle pressure.As the pressure is not an indication of the amount or state of the liquid nitrous in the bottle,there must be an "ideal" method for looking after your bottles to ensure consistency.

Your method of adjusting fuel pressure as bottle pressure drops is a "safe" method,but it also means that as bottle pressure drops so does performance.Not a lot of point as far as drag racing goes,it would be better(performance wise) to increase N2O jet to get mixture back and maybe power too!

Looks like another complicated area,As you say it'll be interseting to see what comes up.

The following is the best technique for you guys and is what I used to do long before heaters and N-Boost;

1) Have the biggest or most bottles you can carry on the vehicle

2) Set the mixture to be correct at the normal ambient temps in the UK

3) Top up the bottles after every run to the same weight

4) By keeping records of pressure and required nitrous jet adjustments you can then alter the nitrous jet to account for any pressure changes you experience, so that the mixture stays constant and the race results the same.

5) Alternatively you could adjust fuel pressure as Tezz is doing and as long as the variations aren't too big you should see little difference between race results.

batty yes performance drops a tad , oki i cant post my static test and exact settings as they may be taken out of context , but i test my system at 1000 psi and i know as trev has told me where my revs should peak , so at 950 psi im a tad on safe side down to 850 psi i can use reg and fuel ect , now why performance drops of a tad at our level ya will not notice , but if you did , if at 950 psi you runing 80 bhp jet , if ya drop to 850 ya could fit 100 bhp jet to compensate , do a static test and make sure the ratio is correct

and i do static tests on my bike at both 80 bhp and 100bhp and listen to engin it takes some testing but it is possible for no cost to sort it , but below 850 and above 1000 as trev said ya out of ball park and then ya need to look at other systems , but i did find the smaller 20 oz bottles get the warmth into nitrous alot quicker than my 11lb as i found out its the liquid that need heat in it not the bottle to keep the pressuer up and maybe this is an advantage of the smaller bottle for our set ups

Starting to get confused now
Got your PM Tezz thanx
How are you getting 1000psi. The best pressure I managed - in 20oz like you - was 850 that's freezing the bottle over night keeping the 11lb'er warm and then filling by weight.

I'd just decided to use 5lb bottles then you suggest maybe small better for us little guys

5lb bottle!!!! big is beautiful!

Trev topping up bottles is this just to make sure to maintain liquid all time or is it to avoided as i found on a bike to lessen the effect of the liquied sloshing about once ya start to empty bottle , as with bottle oriantation i never had a prob with full bottle yet a 50% full bottle i got probs till i either run a vertical dip tube or inverted bottle no dip tube, if i top up bottle this will reduce the temp of the liquided nitrous and pressuer in race time about hour between runs may be oki local track with 15 min turn around i would be at 800psi max

if i had a van would top up with nitrogen and when empty fit spares that had allready come to normal temp

as you said within reason i can ajust but there are a set of limits i have to be within to run and not just waste gas

biger bottle yes i see thats can be better , yet on bike time it takes for warmth to get into the nitrous is a lot longer than my 20oz bottles so even if its cold i have at leasta good chance with 20oz bottles of getting up to pressuer

as i ride my bike to track i now have no choice but to fit bigger bottles due to bhp im running, , new bottle will be 2.5 lbs i run twin 20oz on bike linked and to balance each other i just kind of get a feeling bigger bottle may take **** of long time to ajust but once has will stay there and more stable

ALL my suggestions were to maintain consistency Tezz.

To a great extent it doesn't matter what nitrous pressure you use as long as it stays the same run after run, so whatever technique you use, it just needs to be repeatable.

Got that bit Trev

if i run a 100 fuel jet and 200 nitrous at 950 psi i need 30 psi fuel

if i run a 100 fuel jet and 200 nitrous at 850 psi i need 25 psi fuel

will both of the above asuming i maintain correct ratio produce the same the same tourqe.

not tested when it below 850 yet i will but if its 800 and i drop to 20 psi and nitrous works feels same should i say run an 80 bhp set at 950 , and 100 bhp at 850 and 120 at 800 to maintain same rear wheel tourqe

Your 2nd option was closest but the way to maintain the torque/power/performance at the same level regardless of nitrous pressure, is to keep the fuel pressure constant and adjust the nitrous jet size to give the same static test result.

Thanks Trev , i think i got it now

Starting to see the light
as i do run out of a van,the plan's starting to look like.. a 5lb bottle on the bike,another spare ready in the van and then either a heated 11lb bottle ready for quick top off's or go the whole hog and get the full size bottle rented.

Got the drift now 950psi would be great but if 850 is easy to achieve and maintain,thru a days racing.then it would be better -for the power levels I'm at- to keep a constant pressure ?

LOL batty you got a secret stash of bottles and vavles

if ya have a van stick bottles in passanger side that will warm them never understood why cars dont do that a free bottle warmer

would not just a spare bottle of nitrogen do and bit of pipe fit the gauge on the sprv side and top of to 950psi , ive never done this but seams it works , im thinking about one of these for my ruck sack

the 5lb will still cool as you use gas and fill with gas and will need time to balance its self to normal termp

if i could fit a 5lb bottle i would fit a heater then there are no variables 950psi set jet ratio job done , we know best way a max extrem race and a tranducer ect , but i dont see why if ya keep an eye on it a gauge and a fine tuned sprv would not be cool with just a realy and on of switch

So I'm thinking a nice warm insulated(maybe heated) box to keep bottles in,do a run,bottle off,new one on,used one weighed and put in the box.
Keep doin that,keep an eye on bottle weight. It shouldn't take too long to get a system setup so you know when you've got to refill.Maybe make an insulated bottle holder for the bike. I can just get a 5lb bottle under/in the seat unit,good job I don't need to carry passengers.

How did you get on with the jag seat heaters?
Tell you what ..WON is still loads less work than building a turbo

jag heaters we still waiting for someone to crash a car but i did look on ebay and there are many options out there

think we getting a bit too into it for our power levels and as trev say keeping it same each run and collecting data is key

i just ajust my fuel psi so i dont run bog of rich , this for now fit in with my usage and i have data on this , other way and also as simple would be for me to set fuel at say 30 psi and do test to find best nitrous size jet to use at 850 psi and 950 psi

so at 850 bottle i may need a 125 jet at 950 i may need a 100 forget the bhp rating maintaing correct mix is what important

BUT key hear is Data and keeping track

unless you remove the variables easy but expensive