NITROUS OXIDE ( nos / n2o ) advice forum

Thought this would be a good time to give an update of my install. It`s still in mockup phase, so if anyone has some good suggestions for improvements just fire away.



I started by installing the mounts for the pulsoids on the intake manifold and pull wires through the car.



I also had to remove the ecu to find the tachometer and rpm pinouts.



I used 4 mm cable for the powerfeeds from the battery and the grounds.
Hope that`s not too thick.




Took a while to find the wires for the tach and rpm pinout, but luckily they are the same on the American Civic SI. I took the easy way with some scotch locks, I`m not particularly good at soldering.






I ran out of 4 mm cable for the bottle heater grounds, so resorted to two 2 mm cables bundled together and routed back to the battery.



And now the shiny stuff, I mounted the pulsoids and wired them up.



During a moment when I didn`t pay attention some mean spider thingy crawled onto my manifold.



Added some fuel and nitrous lines from pulsoids to distribution block.




Haven`t really decided yet where exactly to put the crossfires on the manifold.
Anyone have some good ideas? The nitrous and fuel pipes are much too long, I think I can shorten them almost by half their length.
I might raise the distribution block somewhat in order to lessen the sharp bends of the pipes on the inner manifold runners.
Does it matter if one pair of pipes has 90 degree bends and the other pair of lines are pretty straight? I`m under the impression that the 90 degree bends will create more flow resistance, correct me if I`m wrong.



Had some problems getting the bottle bracket mount securely fitted to the bottom of the car. The screws Noswizards provided were too short because of a thick layer of insulation material. I used some longer self tapping screws, but I don`t know if this is sufficient to fasten the bottle proper, it feels a bit wobbly with the bottle mounted.




You can`t see it in this picture, but there is a bulge on the floor almost touching the bottom of the bottle. It took me some time to get the orientation of the bottle right.
I also tilted the bottle about 15 degree to one side to ensure that nitrous is reaching the nitrous tube all the time.





My diy control panel with nitrous activation switch, bottle heater switch, TPS, window switch, minimax controller.
It all works, but the strange thing is that I can turn on the minimax and window switch by flicking the activation switch, regardless if the ignition switch is on or off.
Is this normal?

Next week I`m going to install the nitrous line from bottle to nitrous pulsoid and the fuel line from engine to fuel pulsoid, have the bottle filled for the first time and experience the Won magic.

wow I am very interested to see numbers on this when it is all done. It is looking great so far. I love my si and the type R is a better car. you are making great progress. What shot size are you planning on running? I do envy this it looks great!!!!!! I am so excited to do this to mine. When I do you can be sure that I will be asking you questions.

What controller are you going with? we will become civic friends lol

Nice job, that direct port set up is going to look sweet when completed on the intake manifold. My one concern for your safety would be the bottle being held down by 4 sheetmetal screws. God forbid in the case of an accident the weight of the bottle will easly rip those of the floor and become a missle. Can i suggest cutting and drilling a plate to mirror the brackets footprint, and then buy long enough grade 8 hardware to go through the floor and sandwith the floor with your new plate on the bottom. It won't be wobbly if you do this. Another thing if you're not to hany at soldering maybe have a buddy help you out? My experiances with scotchloks are poor. They can cut half the wires strands when you clamp it down. This might be ok for a tach signal, or something with no load, but I wouldn't be happy knowing that my fuel solenoid wa hooked up with one! Its really not that hard, just keep the copper wires clean, use a quality soldering iron that can get the wires hot enough. Hold the heat on the bottom of the splice and the solder on top. A dab of solder on the iron will help heat transfer, but the wire should get hot enough that the solder will easily be drawn in from the opposite side from the heat. Slide some heatshrink with glue on the inside, shrink it down, and BAM you have a "welded" connecton that can take more vibration, more current, more reliable and is more weather tight!

when you do put the crossfires in I would also like to know how it works out, But if you were wondering having the nitrous feed lines the same length will make a better distribution and a bit more even. As to the location of the injection I am not sure where on the runners they would be best.

I want to increase the power gradually, starting with a 25 bhp shot and taking it up to a 75 bhp shot. I might even take it up to a 100 bhp shot if all goes well.
Problem is, I have a catless race manifold, but with the stock 60 mm exhaust. If it proves to be too restrictive I might have an exhaust cutout welded in just after the mid silencer.

I just have the basic minimax controller. I got it with a secondhand Noswizards kit, I sold the kit for a good price and kept the minimax.

Make sure the Dist block is dead vertical and level its hard to tell from pics , it looks like you going to have some very tight bends getting to your injectors when you mount them in manifold so as you say rasing that may be better and also rasie the pulsiods a bit they look very close to engin there and will both get hot , if ya leave them there take extra care when fitting the feed lines to pulsiods that they dont rest on any part of enging or if the get too close a bit of old fule pipe sliped over the nylon will act as a sheild or you can get heat proof sleeving to run pipes thro

also as you using elbows on your dist block if its new it should have the ristrictors fitted inside the dist block if not you can see it if you remove the elbow

And No if you wired it correctly with ignition off you should have no power to mini max or anything else

You are right about the bottle bracket Justin. I`m going to buy some longer self tapping screws to fix the bracket proper.
I only used scotchlocks on the tach wire and rpm wire. Those are some thin wires and it`s just for picking up a signal, I think they draw only 1 amp or so.

this is a handy pick to look at when ya deling with mutipl feeds earths ect your arm switch would go on the blue wire

Better still, try using coach bolts, as you can get a spanner on those and make it really secure (especially as the bottle is inside the car)

Coach bolts Rich, what`s that then?

They are a heavy duty self tapping bolt (sorry I meant screw), link should show an example

http://www.fastfixdirect.co.uk/code/nav ... tegoryID=6

Tezz, I more or less copied your wiring schematic, although it looks way different if you look at the backside of my control panel.

I`m not sure but the Honda civic interior fuse box has some ports which are live all the time. I may have tapped one such port. Ah well, it works. Stupid electrics.

Ah, I see. Those are exactly the screws I used. I suspect some of the screws (I used 8 of them) are not fully into the metal, but in the thick insulation material underneath the carpet. I`m going to have another look at it next week. Need to take a rest now because of my bad back.

you and me both, I've gone to work today for a rest

yes probley picked up wrong feed but you really should change it so you know when ignition of so is every thing and when arm is off again its all off


On the Dash front are you Leaving it like that the idea is cool the finish leaves a lot to be desired , sorry but i hate it and i had to say it

Mind you easily fixed with some speaker covering fabric in black and contact adsive or vinal covering and use some of that body trim on internal edges in black nice miters in corners , you know what i mean the stuff like they put on the raised lips on car metal body work usally in chrome or some nice ally plate :-) many option but DUCT Tape im sorry Nooooooooooooo

Respect


Tezz

Yes your are right Tezz. I need to pimp up the panel a bit. Already have some ideas on how to fix that.

Paul - are there any cars with a similar dash in the scrapper?

Thinking about one with a big bit of plastic - like the glove box - that you could use to make a false front for your panel?

Would give it a more 'OEM' look and hide any screws.

If not - I use matt black spray in one car and satin black in the other to hide dash board mods Prefer the halfrauds paint as it sprays nicer than car plan.

Well, I actually went to the scrappies for a matching piece of plastic panel, but it turned out that most of them are too weak.
The minimax, window switch, and the rest of the ancillaries produce a hefty weight, and you need a sturdy piece of thick plastic to hold everything in place.
In the end I cut a piece of plastic out of a bucket and modified it to fit.
It looks a bit scruffy, but I intend to beautify it with some adhesive foil and plastic strips.

Yes that unfortunately would be the case

I was thinking of 2 layers - your panel as you have made it (which IS good by the way just not pretty) then the cut out dash section over the top just to make it pretty. Although you may have to wiggle to fit as it does make it a lot thicker!

Its always hard to get it to look just so!

I'm lucky - NO ONE expects my car to look good!

A bit of an update. Added some further parts of my nitrous kit to my CTR.



I started by replacing the stock fuel line with this modified fuel line. Luckily, because of the quick disconnect fittings installation was easy.



It turned out that some vacüum hoses got in the way of the fuel line, I had no other choice than to run it over part of the cylinderhead.
I used some old fuel hose as a sleeve to protect it from heat. Hope this will be sufficient.



Let the engine run for a while to test for leaks, and sure enough a tiny drop of fuel leaked from this fitting, but after a while the leak seemed to disappear spontaneously.




Pictures from my nitrous line. Anyone can confirm this will not restrict nitrous flow too much? I tried everything to route the nitrous pipe without kinking it too much.




Pictures showing how I routed the nitrous pipe into the engine bay to the nitrous pulsoid.
Used some old fuel pipe to keep the heat away.

Had a bit of a setback today. I tried to have my bottle filled but the supplier didn`t have the correct adapter, so I need to order an adapter from the Wizards.

Finally had some time to finish my install this weekend. At the same time was a bit nervous when it came to drilling holes in the intake manifold. First time I did a direct port setup.



Drilled the holes halfway up the manifold length to avoid reversion as much as possible.
Couldn`t be arsed to remove the manifold to remove the metal particles. I intend to start the engine, rev it and blow the stuff through.



And now it was time to connect the pipes to the crossfires



I didn`t expect the pipes to be so stubborn. Did nothing but kinking the pipes because of the required sharp bends.
Especially the pipes for the inner runners were a pain. In the end I decided to shorten the pipes for the inner runners a bit in order to get the bends right.
Is it alright if the pipes have small marks from the kinks? I straightened it out as good as I could.
I suspect the inner cylinders will get a larger shot now than the outer cylinders because of the pipelength difference, although the bends in the pipes for the inner cylinders are much steeper. I hope that will balance the discharge out somewhat.





Bit hard to see in these pictures above, but I tilted the distribution block forward just a bit to counteract the G forces on launch.



The fuel pulsoid sits a bit too low. I need to raise it a bit to keep the pipe between pulsoid and distribution block horizontal.



Finally got my bigger jets, 4mm blanks and nitrous adapter, so I can have my bottle filled.
Then it`s time to sort out all the niggles with my system and do some tests.

You don't need to alter the fuel Pulsoid position it will be fine as it is.

You'd have found it easier to fit the pipes if you'd reversed the pipes so the centre injectors were connected to the D-Block outlets nearest the engine.

The D-Block needs to be mounted totally vertical.

You'll probably get away with the ex-kinked pipes but if I were you I'd replace them and rearrange the connections as mentioned above. I'd expect you to have enough pipe left, so you only need a few more olives and even if you've used all the pipe, it's on a few Euros for all you need.

Looking good , I would 100% replace the kinked pipes , just incase they get weaker when hot , also they should all be the same lenght you could have put them in a jug of hot water before fitting to make life easier and just leave them in place for a bit before doing up nuts and olives and as Trev said middle injectors to back of D block outside to front , dont worry about gs it more important the block level

Tezz

Hmm, food for thought. I figured I had the layout of the fuel and nitrous pipes right, but if you say your arrangement is better I`m going to change that. I think I`ve got just enough olives left for some new pipes. Frankly I`m not satisfied with some of the pipes either, on some of them you can see where they kinked.
Should only take me a few hours to change the pipes.

Dont worry M8 took me 4 times till i was happy with my install , trick is to cut pipe fit on nut and olive and just turn the nut in a few turns so it hold pipe central and in postion and if ya dont like it trim pipe or fit a new bit that way ya not wasted an olive , as i said if ya warm in hot water when they cool they set in that shape but dont do up olive when they hot

Nice job on using old fule pipe as an insulator and protector , and thats so close to being a great install and perfect