NITROUS OXIDE ( nos / n2o ) advice forum

Having done all the planning here, I thought I would get on with the installation.

I have managed so far to get it all fitted and tested the electrics (minimax and TPS). This took a couple of days.

First off I had to run the pipework from the boot. Started by stripping out the interior:





Then thread the LPG and Nitrous pipes from the boot:





Then along the inside of the sills:



Along with a length of Cat5e to act as control wiring:



then trough into the engine bay:





The red wire is the output from the ECU to the TPS to activate the Minimax. It has a .2 - 4.8 volt range. In the end we st the TPS at 85% to ensure the stepper motor that adjusts the throttlebody during autobox shifting will reset the Minimax. Minimax was left at 3 seconds and 30% start level.

Next up the pulsoids and injector were fitted:





Once all plumbed in:



The LPG is the shorter of the 2 injector pipes.

Then the circuits were tested with an LED:

video here

Ran out of time so called it a day at that. I have now bought a bottle heater for the 11lb bottle I have and some more jets and an isolation valve for the LPG. Next planned work day is a couple of weeks away but I hope to complete the static test and a little bit of data logging on the 'private' test track nearby!

Mike

Good to see some progress.

Looking good Mike!

I'll do a full write up in a few days but I went up to WON today and Ant helped me set it all to work and it's working!

Got to get the mixture a bit leaner, but running 100 jets and a rolling start and there is a definite improvement. The ET is down a second based on the in car data logger and my 0 to 60 is down just over a second. Got to get the wide band on it next and refine the jets.

Thanks all at WON.

Well the proof is in the pudding and my ETs show that a little bit of NOS goes a long way.

Ran the sprint at GTI last weekend and got 15.651 and 15.655 on petrol.

At York this weekend with a very rich 50Hp jet on LPG I got 15.102 and 15.0511.

Happy it's working. More to come once the wideband is in.

Mike

Along with a length of Cat5e to act as control wiring:

I'm not sure what you might be controlling with that, but Cat5e is a set of 4 twisted pairs of solid copper 24ga wire, used for Ethernet networks and telephone communication. In a car, automotive wiring is ALWAYS stranded due to the vibration factor. Using stranded wire allows the use of much smaller gauges of wire bundled together to form a certain gauge, but with high resistance to wire breakage due to vibration. In my opinion, you are setting yourself up for future trouble by using Cat 5 wire inside your car. Please source fine strand automotive grade wiring. If you do, you'll be blissfully avoiding having to remember this 'warning' when your Cat 5 wire cracks and goes open circuit on you.

Respectfully,

Bart

I agree Bart!
I wouldnt use that in a vehicle. Its not man enough.

The Cat5e isn't solid copper but multistranded from a patch lead. I use it to control the relay for the bottle heater and LPG solenoid relay.

Mike

You are either mistaken that its Cat5e, or what 'multistranded' actually means, compared to 'stranded'. If it IS Cat5e then it is 8 conductors of single 24 gauge, each in its own insulation, bundled into 4 twisted pairs. Do not mistake these 8 conductors (8 separately insulated strands in a jacket: 'multistranded' = 'multi-conductor') for 'stranded' wire. True stranded wire uses wire strands of 26 gauge or smaller grouped together, uninsulated from each other, to form a single path within the insulation having the same cross-sectional area as a given gauge solid wire. It thus has both higher current capacity and higher resistance to mechanical failure than a similar single conductor.

You can run 4 conductors of #16 stranded to do that job, not for the current capacity, but for the mechanical strength and vibration resistance capacity it has. Anything less than this is asking for trouble.

If you don't like 4 separate wire runs, it is possible to get 'trailer wire' that is bundled with 4 or more conductors in a flat ribbon, or bundled into a 'cord', which has even more physical protection from abrasion.

Respectfully,

Bart

Here's a photo of the stuff I used. It is 8 strand from a patch lead so maybe it isn't Cat5e, will it be ok do you think it will be ok?



Thanks,

Mike

Mike,

So the wire is 8 conductor, but each conductor is stranded, as the photo shows, even though its somewhat blurry. Even though it has stranded conductors, the gauge is still fairly small either 24 gauge or 23 gauge. Vibration will affect the wire less than the solid conductor version I was referring to, but you MUST anchor the wire in such a way that there is absolutely NO STRESS on the splice points, should you decide to keep using it. Also the small gauge makes it difficult to be sure that EVERY strand is actually part of the splice, and it has very little mechanical strength.

To sum up, the fact that it does have stranded conductors gives it a 'usable' title, barely, but I would never use any conductor smaller than 18 gauge in my wiring.

Respectfully,

Bart

Bart,

Thanks for the advice. I have doubled up on a piar controling the relay for the heater now; but given the effort to route it I will leave it in until the car goes in for a bit of work. If it fails I just loose the heater.

On another note I finally got round to fitting the wideband over the weekend and what an invaluble tool it was. After leaving the Wizards HQ and Ant after having the install checked and doing a few test runs I went on to York on the Sunday and did 3 runs improveing on my PB.

On saturday with the wideband fitted I found that it was was a fair bit lean running a 100 N2O & a 35 LPG and so a progression of LPG jets went in and the plugs came out and back in again until I reached a slightly rich condition at 100 N2O and 80 LPG with bottle pressure at 950psi for N20 and 130psi for LPG. Mixture is now initially rich at the start of a 1/4 mile but the ECU is compensating with injector timing after a few seconds with a nice green light showing through 2nd and 3rd gears.

Using the VCDS software a 1/4 mile is now showing at 14.3 second (+/- 0.56 secs) and a terminal speed of 98.9MPH. Now just need some proper timing gear and the bigger jets i have just ordered! Damned addictive this chemical.........

Glad to see you've made to get to the test stage.