NITROUS OXIDE ( nos / n2o ) advice forum

i have just about finished installing the won kit.but the nitrous line from the solenoid to the injector runs over a coolant hose that goes to the throttle body.would this be a problem with the heat damaging the nitrous line

post a pic m8 and if you worried just use a bit of old rubber fuel pipe split and slide over pipe fix with a few cable ties or get some heat shelid sleve

heres pics of the install,i left the nitrous line from solenoid to injector a bit longer is that ok


as you can see the nitrous line is close to 2 coolant hoses i have temporary put a bit of black electrical tape were it passes the hoses.cheers for any advice,bjc

That wont be a problem so you can remove the tape.

Why are you using braided hose and where is it routed from the bottle to the Pulsoid???

the braided line runs from the bottle in the boot to under the plastic trim on the passenger sill were the wiring loom runs and into the engine bay from under the glovebox area.its then been fed through a plastic wiring harness than runs across to the drivers side at the top rear of the engine bay.the kit i got was second hand and sourced some other bits from a supplier you have listed on your site and a shrader fuel adapter from yourselves.
i have done the test to make sure nitrous and fuel are being shot out,but have yet to do the test with the lines connected to the injector(waiting on another helper to check the revs)while activating sytem. my car revs upto 7000rpm so should i hold revs at 2000rpm when i activate .its jetted for 25 bhp at the moment,but would like to go more but its a case of how much my car could reliably cope with and keep traction.maybe then i will need to look at a progressive controller.by the way its a 3.0l v6 fwd vectra.cheers for the advice bjc

I STRONGLY advise you to replace the braided hose with OUR nylon hose, because you will NOT get good results on such small jets (or even quite big ones) with braided pipe, unless you add a purge solenoid and then you'd be wasting loads of nitrous.

DO NOT carry out a static test while you have braided hose, unless you fit a purge.

why cant i do a static test with the braided without a purge fitted?will it be bad for the engine or just give less efficient performance.cheers bjc

unless ya braided line has a clear plastice covering like they do on most bike break lines i would be a bit worried and be very carfull about it running any where near a loom or wiring the out side of the braid can be very abrasive you be suppriesed just how quick they will work there way through sheating on a loom .


There quite a few othere reasons and post on site about Braided verses nylon if ya have a look

Tezz

i have wrapped the braided line with electrical tape where its concealed and comes into contact with other wires so hopefully that will resolve those issues.i read the other threads about nylon 'v' braided and i see that the nylon gives better performance.but i am more worried about the statement of dont do static test.will it kill my engine?

Here's what happens when braided hose is used without a purge;
1) When you first turn the bottle on you end up with the pipe FULL of gaseous NOT liquid nitrous
2) The volume is so much that it could take a minute or more of operation (depending on jet size and the smaller the jet the worse the problem), before any liquid is delivered to the engine.
3) Gaseous nitrous is much less dense that liquid nitrous and therefore does not add enough oxygen to the engine when the system is activated.
4) If you used the static test to set the mixture, you would get VERY RICH results and if you acted on those results by adjusting the jet sizes, then the first time you use the system after the gas in the pipe has been replaced with liquid nitrous, YOU WOULD MELT YOUR ENGINE.

There is NOT a single GOOD reason to use braided hose but there are MANY GOOD reasons NOT to use it.

thanks for the advice trev.would nylon not also suffer from the same effects too.if i was to leave the braided on and make sure that the mixture adjustments when re-jetting are only made when the system has had time to clear the gas inline.would that mean the car would run rich for the first minute of activation everytime but be fine after.cheers for the advice

done the static test yesterday.the set up is now using a maximiser progressive controller.on the 50/25 jets after gases were cleared the engine revs went from holding at 3000 up to 4500,no strange engine noises and no black smoke.took the car for test drive and couldnt feel any difference when on gas.then changed the jets for 70/35and did static test and sismilar type results as first time so took car for another drive and again on gas didnt feel that there was any increase.back in garage and the guy doing the tests with me rang ant from wizards of nos and asked for some advice on what jets suitable.there were some pointers that were recommended and said try a 100/35 jetting.garage didnt have the 100 jet so tried a 90/35.on static test it went from 3000rpm to 5000rpm with no bad signs.took car for a drive and still i cant feel much improvement.ran out of time so will be going back next week for further tests.

The possible causes for the problem are;

1) The braided hose for all the reasons previously provided
2) The braided hose specifically because its absorbing heat and vaporising the liquid to gas in the section that's in the hot engine bay
3) Have you checked your spark strength using a tool similar to this; http://www.noswizard.com/product_desc.php?id=104 if not then I'd advise you to do so, because the results from the static test show that under no load conditions the mixture is close to being right and SHOULD produce a decent result on the road, as long as the spark is strong enough to work when under load.

I assume the bottle is full of liquid and that its mounted correctly to deliver liquid?

with them test and jets sounds like ya delivering gas not liquied to me

Me i would take big bottle from boot fit 4mm fitting to it , get some one to hold it or support near engin bay at right angle make sure its full (weigh it) connect a short bit of 4mm pipe to pulsiod and test again take ya 10 mins to do and a few fittings

have you tried disconnecting the out let from pulsoid sticking fuel outlet in a jar fire system and watch what exits pulsiod dose the stream exiting pulsiod change in any way and what do you see , if ya see noting or dose the densatiy change

the bottle is mounted correctly and has been refilled and when activated with hose diconnected gives a whitish plume.how long would it take to clear the gasious nitrous thats in the line with a 90 jet in.
still cant feel any difference in power.so will have to look at getting the spark tester and changing to the nylon line.with the spark tester my ht leads have a very long neck on them were they fit on the plug.will they be ok to fit on the tester.
also cant see a price on your shop site for the fittings to connect the nylon line to pulsoid and bottle.cheers for any help/advice

I wanted to bump this thread for future visitors:

There is a tangible difference between the performance of the nylon supply hose as opposed to the braided steel in other nitrous systems. Please read this thread for further details.